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American Folklife Festival
Washington, DC
June 23 – July 4, 2004
Once a year, as it has for the past 38 years, the American Folklife explodes onto the Mall in Washington, DC during the two weeks prior the Fourth of July. Sponsored by the Smithsonian Institution, the festival celebrates America and its rich multi-cultural heritage.
Divided into three sections, annually featured are: a region of the US – a US subculture – and a featured region or country. The 2004 offerings were as diverse as this country itself. Water Ways featured the Mid-Atlantic Maritime Communities - Haiti: Freedom and Creativity looked at that country from the mountains to the sea – and Nuestra Música
explored music in American Latino culture. This is a big annual event – plan all day if you want to see the whole event.. Some notes on Washington, DC in the summer… the place is hot & humid, over crowed & over priced. The Mall area is not small – and although the festival is tented, shade is limited. Parking is insane. But there are ways to deal with all of this. Bring plenty of frozen bottled water in a backpack – sunblock, a hat & dark sunglasses - park in the ‘burbs and take the cheap and convenient DC Metro system (there is a stop right under the Mall). The good news here is that the Folklife Festival – like all Smithsonian Museums - is absolutely free.
I opted for doing an afternoon at the festival, with my young son in tow. I figured we would see the Water Ways exhibit and call it a day. Although we live in a large city, right on the Chesapeake Bay, he is an urban kid and doesn’t get to see boats and water ways much. So I figured I would get him a look at the tops and bottoms of boats and let him learn a bit about bay life. Although there was much to do and learn aimed right at kids – he took in the Water Ways exhibit with a big yawn – he had other plans.
The Haiti exhibit had everything that appealed to both our sensibilities - sounds, tastes, colors and smells that all tempted the exotic. “Look Mom – Voodoo and coffee!” Featured exhibits showed traditional crafts, agricultural products, religion and a bit about Haitian rural life. Strolling thru the event we experienced bananas from tree to table (“they grow on trees?”) – rum making in a homemade still – exotic traditional costumes – and tasted the sticky sweetness of traditional Haitian coffee. My son participated in a drumming workshop for kids using found objects and tradition Haitian rhythm instruments. We were having fun. Next we caught two workshops – both presented with enough flair to hold both of our attentions. We watched a Voodoo one on making a sacred altar for Papa Legba and another on Haitian cooking. That made us hungry. Strolling to the food tent we found more exotic tastes (reasonably priced) to sample. We decided to split a chicken dish and sweet potato pie (“Mom you have got to make this at home!”)
After acres of walking and the heat of the afternoon sun, we needed a place to relax before heading back. My son found the prefect spot. In a large tent at the end of the Haitian exhibit he found wonderful music. A group called Tikoka, from Port-au-Prince was playing Haitian Twoubadou music – at type of story telling ballad set to an almost Salsa type music with heavy rhythms. We had had no idea what was being said – but found other ways of crossing the cultural bridge. I got us two mango smoothies and headed to the brightly colored benches near the dance floor to relax and listen. We swayed with the rhythms and enjoyed the relaxing exotic sounds and energy of the music. A perfect end to our Folklife Festival day. I have no idea what the 2005 festival will bring, but you can bet we will be in attendance.
For more information see: http://www.folklife.si.edu/festival/2004/haiti/index.html
Photos copyright LA. Judge and © 2004, Smithsonian Institution, photos.si.edu
By LA Judge
Editor of the VC Magazine
Council member of the Vampire Church
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